Breakdown of Batik

West African Batik came to the region by the way of Dutch traders through ancient trans-Saharan routes and the region has since adopted the technique as its own. Wax printing was incorporated into indigenous groups traditional textiles, and the patterns came to be forms of social expression conveying political and religious beliefs, marital status, and even moods. 

Working from her home with the help of five other women, Chantal and Aklala Batik have established a successful enterprise based on the beauty and uniqueness of her handmade batik.  Chantal’s incorporation of modern trends and styles while still preserving traditional waxing and dying techniques gives her products a distinctive aesthetic appealing to both locals and tourists alike. 

 

 

The batik process begins with a large piece of 100% white cotton sourced from Ghana, as the quality of the fabric found there is superior to that of Togo. Some patterns and designs require the cloth to be dyed a base color before it can be printed on. 

 

The next step is for the cloth to be coated with a layer of wax in various patterns by using a wooden stamp called a tampon.  Chantal has a large variety of tampons that she herself designs.  In this step artisan creativity really comes into play, as different ways to use the same stamp or a combination of different stamps can create an assortment of intricate designs and motifs.  

The stamped cloth is then immersed into a reactive dye, allowing the cloth to absorb a color while leaving the waxed parts unchanged.  The fabric is then laid out to dry and allow the color to set in.  For more complex designs, other areas of the fabric may be waxed again and then plunged into a different dye to create multiple colors. 

 After the color has set it goes through an extremely hot wash to remove the wax and then hung out on the line to dry in the sun.  Once dry, it is ironed to fully rid of any leftover wax. 

The finished product is then cut and sewn to construct a range of her unique products from bags, apparel, stuffed animals, necklaces, journals, aprons, to laptop and cosmetic cases! Recycled batik scraps are also used for product accents and jewelry. I'm going to be making my own batik next week and I'm going to make Emily take pictures of me doing it so results to come!

Culture Talk- with a little bit of Shock

We returned from Lome and Agbodrafo late yesterday afternoon after a particularly long day of traveling. Tomorrow marks the start of my third week here in Kpalime, and after seeing more towns in the region, I think I've had enough time and exposure to reflect on all that I’ve experienced. 

One of the more striking things about Togolese culture is that I encounter affability, vitality and openness everywhere I go. Entering a shop or starting a conversation with someone that randomly approaches me in the streets without handshakes and an abundance of smiles seems both inconceivable and offensive. Perhaps this openness is all the more remarkable to me because I just spent 5 months in France with French society and culture.  It’s not that the French are rude, for I think that to be an unfair generalization, but I did face certain elements of xenophobia and insularity that are providing a stark contrast with my experiences here. That is not to say that I don’t stick out like a sore thumb, but I am never ignored here in Togo; I say hello 100 times a day. Children come running to the sides of the road as Emily and I pass, waving and singing the “Yobo” or “white person” song. Yet it’s these open interactions, this sense of barriers coming down that assuages the more daily hardships. 

For travelling, I am coming to learn, is anything but easy.  Road taxis are jam-packed with people and you are forced to either sit on the lap of a complete stranger, or remain upright and motionless with your shoulders and legs squished together for extended periods of time. You are subject to random and mysterious security checkpoints where young women shove loaves of bread into your face through the open crevices of the windows, and god forbid if the driver doesn’t have the right ticket or paperwork or whatever, a prolonged argument ensues and usually ends in a bribe of some sort.  You are jolted over potholes, and when it rains, like it frequently has during this rainy season, the roads become absolutely un-traversable, which doesn’t mean that drivers don’t still try and power through.

Furthermore, the utter physicality of living here just doesn’t abate.  Hot showers, cleanliness, and caring about my personal appearance are unattainable luxuries. Now I have absolutely no desire to look in a mirror-- in this case ignorance is bliss.  But because I’m not as wrapped up in myself means I can take in so much more of the world around me. For Kpalime, if nothing else, is a stimulation of the senses.  From the brilliance of the red earth, to the luscious green foliage, and brightly colored houses, the bold and vibrant prints on the clothing, and the lightning that illuminates the sky and operates like a strobe light; taking in my surroundings just got to a whole new level. Then there are the encircling smells of food cooking, of freshly rained on ground, of propane and Moto exhaust.  The cacophony of children’s laughter, the clacking of tonal Ewe, the rhythmic beatings of the drums, the street sweeping, the Moto’s honking, the pounding resonance of thunder, the same song repetitiously played on the radio; Togo has it’s own distinct soundtrack.  The humidity is palpable, the dust is everywhere, the sun beats down, but every so often the most refreshing wind will blow my hair off my face and tickle my skin, or it will suddenly downpour and soak me through entirely—I never now travel without a rain jacket after that first time.

 Yesterday I saw a monkey riding on the back of a motorcycle and I literally jumped up and down because I was so excited. I’m pretty sure Emily thinks of me as a toddler because I experience such joy and wonder at the smallest things, I trip on the roads a lot, I’m easily frightened by huge lizards and charging baby goats, and I don’t know how to sit still and relax for more than 5 minutes.  But I can’t help it, this experience is so new and amazing to me that I’m just trying to take it all in before it passes me by. 

Product Photography for the Lookbook and Design Development!

We’ve been shooting product photos to incorporate into a new lookbook/catalog for Chantal.  With this, when Marcella, a designer working with Nest, gets here at the end of July to lead a product development effort, Chantal’s current production ideas and capabilities will have been compiled and detailed so that they can be improved upon. Development will include but is not limited to the newly acquired liner that will make her bags much more durable and practical, incorporation of seasonal trends in terms of batik motifs and colors, experimenting with new batik stamps, using the better fabric from Ghana with which the dye is much more vibrant, and recycling batik scraps to make beads and jewelry. Ideally we will distribute the catalog to promote Aklala locally, reach Kpalime’s large tourist and expatriate market, and provide Nest visual collateral to show prospective ethical sourcing clients. Improved product design translates to more appeal and marketability for her products, which translates into more demand, and then more profits for Aklala. Increased profits provides the women higher wages more aligned with fair trade standards, and allows for construction of the workshop and apprenticeship program, both of which are integral for her intended business expansion.

Bienvenue au Togo!

I was the victim of bureaucratic corruption within minutes of stepping off the plane.  That, coupled with the immediate stifling heat, meant that Togo wasn't exactly making the best first impression. After I passed my bags through the scanner, a security guard told me that I couldn't leave the terminal until I gave him a gift.  I faintly remembered hearing about having to pay some sort of exit tax to leave many developing countries and I saw a man next to me slip the guards a $20. In my defense, my confusion stemmed from the fact that he was demanding this "gift" while simultaneously stroking my hand and asking if he could take me out for coffee.  Mixed messages. So I got flustered, and was so tired of being in Airport World that I consented and slipped him a $20 and sprinted out of there. I knew exactly what was going on, I knew I was being scammed, but at the same time I was just too tired to care.  Pick your battles.

 I was wrong about Togo, I love it. My first real impression of Togo was Lome,  the capital city and kind of a large-scale village.  Everyone and their grandmother has a motorcycle, which they drive recklessly, including the grandmothers. Also I know I had seen it in pictures before, the extraordinary daily balancing acts of women with huge baskets on their heads and babies on their backs, but let's just say it's not as easy as it looks. I tried and failed, but don't worry I kept the baby safe.  We arrive in Kpalime and Ashley takes me to my homestay and to meet my “Mama and Papa” and their relatives/ all of the other people who live in the house. I counted and I think it’s around 15 or 16. My favorite is a 2 year old named Gad, who has so much personality. He sees me in the morning and a huge smile lights up his face and he says “Ta Ta Julia.”

The scenery here in Kpalime is beautiful.  When I pictured myself in Africa I didn’t picture myself in the tropics, but that is where I am.  All the roads are this pretty clay orange color and they are flanked by palm trees, greenery and mountains.  Some locals here and other volunteers have told me that there is an amazing butterfly sanctuary in the mountains, as well as tons of beautiful waterfalls, an German castle and other great day trips.  I can’t wait to go. We went to a waterfall in Wome the other day and it was so beautiful.  I know I naively pictured an arid landscape before I came to Africa so to see all of this lusciousness has been pretty amazing. 

Our days are pretty slow, and it’s been difficult for me to get used to this leisurely pace with all this time on my hands.  I thrive off of being busy, of always having plans and an agenda on my hands, so this has been a difficult transition.  So now when I’m not at Chantal’s or Ashley’s working, which does take up over half the day, I’m either reading, working, or playing with Gad. Kpalime is known for its artistic tradition, which is on display twice every week at the market. We went this past weekend and I bought three pahne (non batik fabric that comes from Dutch wax printing) that I'm going to have Chantal make custom clothes for me that are pictured below. The market is thriving, tons of fruits and vegetable stands, craft stands, random item stands, and people everywhere. It's a hidden maze of wonderment. We are also going to Lome this weekend and they have an even bigger market there so I can buy more fabric, which I'm really excited about. We're also going to go to a fetish market which sounds so interesting. I'm not really sure what to expect for that one but I'm hoping there's some sort of voodoo involved.

            Currently with Chantal we are working on business expansion, product development, quality control, pricing and community audits, funding proposals, lookbook catalogs, and her apprenticeship program so it’s nice to be busy!  Today we watched them making some batik, I gave them my idea for using recycled scraps of batik to make friendship like bracelets than can be used for either bracelets, purse straps, belts, or a place mat (which seems a little ambitious).and the women loved it! Funny how what I learned at summer camp however many years ago is useful in my summer fellowship.  But it's a good way to incorporate more recycling into the production process! Also I spoke with Chantal this morning for like an hour and a half finalizing details about her apprenticeship program that she wants to start up. Her apprenticeship program will ideally offer apprencticeships to Kpalime’s large population of orphans or disadvantaged youth. Many children are taken in by willing households, but still receive little financial support for their education and development. They are most often found doing domestic work for the family that took them in, but as a result they become dependent on others and have no opportunities for their own professional advancement.  While there are apprenticeships in a wide range of crafts at private and public training centers available, they are expensive and beyond the means of an average family that supports itself on $2 a day.

            Chantal aspires to have a training center and batik workshop that would grant free apprenticeships to orphans and give them an opportunity to learn a trade and support themselves.  While she has invested in a plot of land for the construction of a training center and storefront, complete with lodging for new apprentices and workspace and has developed a detailed budget for construction, she still lacks the necessary funding.  A portion of the revenue from the sales of Aklala’s products would help finance the housing and training for these orphans and underprivileged persons to aid in their independence and development. Once they have completed the training they would be offered paid positions with Aklala Batik that would allow them to support themselves and find permanent housing elsewhere.  The available lodging would then be open to the next round of orphans and individuals.  In addition to providing technical expertise, Chantal and Nest will also work with the women to provide supplementary education with respect to financial skills and management through Nest’s own curriculum.

Product Pictures and this weekend in Lome to follow!

Sample Batik Prints

All hand-dyed in the traditional West African Batik method.  They are all so beautiful!

Whose Volunteer Experience is this Anyway?

       Reading Crystal Hayling's article in Center for Effective Philanthropy titled "Whose Volunteer Experience is this Anyway?" made me reflect on how to effectively engage in a volunteer experience, in my case the Nest Summer Fellowship, and striking the right balance between my personal goals and the overall ambitions of Nest loan recipients and the Nest process.

    Personally, while I do have selfish reasons for deciding to be a Nest Summer Fellow,  I will not allow those desires to eclipse my awareness of my role and purpose.  While I am participating because I want to have experience doing development fieldwork and because it is a part of my personal journey; I also understand the seriousness and scope of Nest's work.  This past semester in my global poverty practice and methods class we attempted to understand the delicacies and sensitivities of aid work in foreign countries.  I was taught the importance of critically examining my role in my practice experience so as to act in a way that always attempts to benefit aid recipients, and not just the donors. While incentives matter, effects matter more, and it is important to never harm recipients' prospects for progress in favor of our own goals. 

    But it must also be taken into consideration that without incentives, the free market does not cater to the world’s poorest people; instead they are the first to be left behind.  There needs to be some form of incentive in order for productive and positive development to take place. Whether it be for political and economic stability, capital accumulation, self-actualization, social work, etc, incentives are very important in the world of development.  Yet it must be understood that there are other goals and purposes in development endeavors that are equally laudable, but do not directly benefit the donor/volunteer. In my opinion, the ultimate goal of development, should be to give those in poverty and underdeveloped countries all necessary resources, structures, and skills,  so that they are no longer dependent on aid unless in times of emergency or disaster; ultimately making western aid and presence a little more obsolete.  It is important for Nest loan recipients to lead dignified and self-sufficient lives without the burden and stigma of dependence. 

         

Pre-Fellowship Expectations

I think that the fact that I'm studying abroad in Paris and completely removed from my normal academic and real life has meant that the fact that I'm spending this summer in Togo with Nest hasn't exactly hit me yet.  When I booked my flights it became so much more real, but at this point it's still a experience that I'm putting off thinking about just because I'm trying to make the most of my time in Europe.  I think being away from my family and friends, living in a home stay program, dealing with the French language barrier has really prepared me for this summer.  I understand that I will be going from a first to a third world country and thus the two experiences will be fundamentally different; and at this moment I can't even begin to comprehend the realities of my future situation, hopefully I will be prepared to deal with some of the adjustment issues such as being away from home in an unfamiliar environment where they don't speak my first language.  But my French gets better every day and hopefully by this summer I will be perfectly fluent, I'm almost there right now!
     What I'm most freaked out about right now is the fact that I get home on May 28th from Paris and I have to leave on June 15th, so I have two weeks to deal with all of my immunizations, get my Visa, pack, visit family and friends, and it's just going to be such a whirlwind.  But I think once I get there and am over the initial shock of my new surroundings, because I know the culture shock is inevitable, especially when the change is so drastic, I will be so happy to be there.  I don't really know what to expect about the fieldsite at all, all I know is what I've learned through working with the Nest through the past year and that can be broken down into the women's stories, basic information about the Akala Collective, pictures of Chantal and Etoname, and other surface knowledge.  That's probably one of the scariest aspects for me, is going in not really knowing what to expect.  I haven't yet grasped the details of what I will be doing for two months, I know what I would like to be doing: working on product development with the women to make them more likely to succeed in increasingly competitive US markets, to teach our business curriculum, to work on monitoring and evaluations, and to feel like I/Nest am making a difference in these women's lives. 
    Also I'm sure like everyone else I'm worried about fundraising, luckily I applied and won a $3000 grant from the UC Berkeley Richard Blum Center for Developing Economies through my Global Poverty and Practice minor but that is still not enough and because I am in Paris, my fundraising options are significantly limited.  But I know that when I get back I'm going to host many Nest events at school to increase awareness and recruit volunteers with Dr. Khalid Kadir so maybe I can figure out some way to pay back my parents through one of them.
          That's it for now! I'm off to Prague, Czech Republic for the weekend! Czech me out :)